Bag Organiser Insert Pattern Maker

A bag organiser is a small open bag that sits inside a bigger one, with pockets for the things that always sink to the bottom: keys, a phone, a pen. It lifts out to move from one bag to another.

Set the width, height and depth to fit your bag, add rows of pockets on one side or both, choose dividers (each can have its own zip), and add handles to lift it out by.

Make it yours: Change the width, height, depth, the top (open, drawstring, roll-top, zip), the handle length and the pockets.

When to choose this one

Choose this one when the bag is an insert: it sits inside a handbag or tote and lifts out, so its size comes from the bag it goes into rather than from what it holds. Set the width, height and depth to fit, then fill it with rows of pockets and optional dividers.

The three starting points, small, medium and large, are sized for different bags. Add handles if you want to lift it out by them.

What you can change

Size

• Width: 6–70 cm (2⅜–27½″). Finished, side to side across the base.
• Height: 8–90 cm (3⅛–35⅜″). Finished, from the base to the top edge.
• Base depth: 0–30 cm (0–11¾″). Front to back across the base. Sets how deep the boxed corners are.

Sizes are typed in centimetres, millimetres or inches. The starting size is Width 26 cm (10¼″), Height 17 cm (6¾″), Base depth 11 cm (4⅜″).

Options

• Pocket rows inside: none, one side or both sides
• Divider zips: none, first divider or all
• Switches: Handles, Lined, Interfacing
• Measurements and counts: Handle length, Room round items, Dividers, Below the top
• Lists you build: Rows

Starting points

These are sizes and settings to begin from, and every one stays fully editable. Type your own measurements, or start from the nearest one.

The bag pattern has 23 starting points in all; the other 20 are in the maker.

Cutting list

At the starting size (Width 26 cm (10¼″), Height 17 cm (6¾″), Base depth 11 cm (4⅜″)) the pattern has these pieces. Fabric sizes include seam allowance, interfacing is cut to the stitching line, and pieces cut on the fold are shown opened out. Each size is the width and height of the piece as cut.

You will also need: Handles (alternative); Elastic, row 2; Zip for divider; Thread. The cover page and materials list give the amounts for your size.

The maker’s fabric estimate at this size: Main fabric about 0.5 m of 112 cm fabric; Lining about 0.5 m of 112 cm fabric.

How it goes together

These are the maker’s own instructions at the starting size. They change with the options you pick, and the PDF carries the full set with the cover, cutting list and materials list.

1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer pieces, inside the seam allowance, and a handle interfacing strip down the middle of each handle.
2. Make the handles: press the strip in half lengthwise, open it, fold both long raw edges in to meet at the crease, then fold in half again so it is 2.5 cm wide. Edgestitch along both long sides. Make both the same length.
3. Make the pocket strips: fold each strip in half on its fold line, right sides together. Sew both short ends at 1 cm, trim the corners, turn right side out and press. Turn the two raw bottom edges in together by 1 cm and press.
4. Sew the pocket rows to the lining before it is sewn up. Lay a lining panel right side up on the table, repeat for the other one.
5. Sew the rows on from the top row down, so the pockets already sewn hang clear of the stitching: row 2, row 1.
6. Row 2, elastic: cut 44.09 cm of 2 cm elastic. Mark 1 cm from one end, then 6 loops of 7.01 cm. Lay it between its two placement lines, match each mark to a divider line, and sew across the elastic at every line, backstitching. Turn the ends under by 1 cm and stitch them down.
7. Row 1, flat pockets: lay the strip on the lining panel front with its folded top on the row's top line. Edgestitch down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, backstitching at both top corners. Sew each divider line from the bottom up to the top edge and backstitch firmly there, where pockets take the strain.
8. Make the zipped divider: lay the zip face down on the right side of one panel, top edges level, and sew 0.6 cm from the tape edge with a zip foot. Sew the second panel to the other side of the tape the same way, so the two panels hang from the zip right sides out. Press the panels away from the teeth and topstitch beside the zip. Turn the panels’ raw bottom edges in by 1 cm and edgestitch them together.
9. Outer: put the two pieces right sides together and sew the side seams and the bottom seam at 1 cm, stopping at the corner cut-outs. Press the seams open.
10. Lining: before sewing, lay the divider on the right side of the lining with its top at the side notches (1.65 cm down from the top seam at the top of the inside) and its sides level with the lining’s sides. Baste the sides inside the seam allowance. Then sew the lining the same way as the outer, through every layer of the divider, leaving the turning gap between the bottom notches open.
11. Box the corners of the outer and the lining (through the divider too): pinch each corner cut-out flat so the side seam lies on the bottom seam, and sew straight across the cut edges at 1 cm.
12. Turn the outer right side out. Baste the handle ends to the outer’s top edge between the notches, raw ends level with the edge and the handles hanging down against the bag, untwisted.
13. Slip the outer inside the lining, right sides together, with the handles sandwiched between. Match the side seams and sew round the top at 1 cm.
14. Turn the bag right side out through the gap in the lining, edgestitch the gap closed and push the lining down inside. Press the top edge.
15. Topstitch all round the top, 0.6 cm from the edge, pressing the handles up first, to hold them firm.

Fabric suggestions

Outer: Canvas, duck, denim, heavy linen, upholstery-weight cotton, or quilting cotton with interfacing.

Lining: Quilting cotton, poplin or lining fabric.

Interfacing, padding or other layers: Medium fusible interfacing or fusible fleece on lighter outers. Interface the handles too unless they’re cut from canvas.

How each fabric family suits it

• Stable woven: great choice. Add interfacing to the outer and handles so it carries weight.
• Heavy or stiff: great choice. Ideal: strong and keeps its shape.
• Stretchy knit: not recommended. A stretchy bag sags and its handles stretch out under load. Choose a woven fabric for this one.
• Slippery or fine: possible, with care. Works as a lining, or as a light shopper made from ripstop. Interface the handle ends.

The maker’s advice adjusts to the fabric family you pick in the Fabric tab.

Printing it

At the starting size the printed pieces take 10 A4 pages, taped together using the page labels, alignment marks and page map. For a print shop, choose a sheet from A0 to a 36″ roll: the pieces are packed onto as few sheets as they will fit on, and if one is too big for the sheet the maker says so. How printing, tiling and the test square work.

Frequently asked questions

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